My French husband (we’ll call him MB) and I are staying at an adorable B&B in Burgundy. The rooms are trés charmant, decorated with seasonal accents, the beds are sublime, we have a back patio over-looking the vineyards, there is even the requisite sweet old dog who roams around and lets you pet her. It is the typical French B&B, delightful and sweet, oozing with charm; but like every B&B in France, for me, it has a tragic flaw, and yes, I mean “tragic” like, “Icharus that sun is gonna melt your wings, dude” tragic. A flaw that destroys the very essence of the B&B…
MB and I enter the breakfast room in the morning and seat ourselves at the table, surrounded by the host and other guests. We all smile and say good morning to each other and then I turn to MB and, silently, we have the following conversation through a series of facial expressions:
My look: One eye brow raised, chewing on one side of face. Corresponding words: I told you so.
MB’s look: Flat, steely eyes, and weird plastic smile at the same time. Corresponding words: Don’t start.
My look: Both eyebrows raised in accusation while appraising the table followed by a slight shoulder shrug. Corresponding words: But what am I supposed to do with this? (“this” referring to the food)
MB’s look: Broad smile while picking up a huge hunk of baguette slathered with butter and taking an enormous bite. Corresponding words: Eat it, weirdo, this is ah-mah-zing.
My look: Curled upper lip while disdainfully picking up a container of yogurt. Corresponding words: Yogurt is the lamest!
MB’s look: Staring at me intently while licking the top of the yogurt lid. Corresponding words: Yogurt is dead sexy.
My look: Full-on eye-roll with a slight shake of the head before getting up and leaving the table. Corresponding words: You are so strange, this breakfast is SUPER disappointing,PEACE!
Okay, so I’m pretty sure that people are going to flip out about this but after careful consideration I’ve decided to “out” myself. So…here it is, y’all:
I do not like French breakfasts.
Man, that feels good to say. Bacon and eggs, did you hear that? Finally, we are free!
Now, before you start coming after me with pitchforks, let me clarify; I love croissant and pain au chocolat (I mean flour, butter, and chocolate…what’s not to like) but that is something that I think should be served with breakfast, not as breakfast (I am not talking weekdays but rather weekend and vacation breakfasts). I am a believer in protein for breakfast, protein and some sort of a HSS (hot starch situation).
(What is she even talking about, a hot starch situation? What does that even mean? She is so weird.)
I want eggs, bacon, sausage, even smoked salmon will do; I want hash browns, GRITS*, and if I am in the Commonwealth, baked beans; I even want some veggies – tomatoes, mushrooms, avocadoes (yes, yes, I know avos are technically a fruit). Basically, I want salt, fat, and heartiness.
However, this is not how breakfast goes down in France. In a French B&B, the breakfast that you pay for is going to be baguette, butter, jam (usually some fabulously delicious, homemade out of the garden variety served in adorable little jars…you know, if you like that sort of thing), yogurt or faisselle**, fruit, and maybe the aforementioned croissant or pain au chocolat. And ça sera tout – that will be all. There will be no eggs or HSS, no meat whatsoever, and while faisselle is technically cheese, it is rather sweet with the consistency of chunky yogurt and is a different experience altogether than typical French cheeses (think cottage cheese). The French simply like their breakfasts to be sweet, light, and room temperature (you will not find a toaster anywhere near a French breakfast).
Now, I realize for some, that this sounds lovely, particularly if you have had a huge, heavy French dinner the night before; but for my weekend breakfast experience to be complete I want something a little more substantial, maybe something that involves hollandaise sauce and multiple courses. Often, my French friends have marveled in surprise when I tell them about breakfast habits of my past:
French Friend: Mais non, ce ne pas possible! Champagne at breakfast?!
Me: Well yeah, when else would you drink a Mimosa? It’s a breakfast drink.”
French Friend: A breakfast drink?
Me: You know, an “eye opener.” In the U.S., we usually start our brunches with booze.
(This is usually when they blink at me, uncomprehending and I being to think, “Wait a minute…is it bad to have a drink first thing in the morning? Are we an entire country of borderline alcoholics? Could this be an unhealthy, worrisome tradition?”)
Me: No, but you don’t understand, it isn’t like a problem or anything, it’s just…um…festive! Yeah, that’s it, it’s festive!
(My French friend continues to look at me, unconvinced.)
Me: Don’t try to get in my head! There is nothing wrong with booze for breakfast! Anyway, you have to have something to get you through all the courses.
French Friend: Courses?
(Now there is intrigue written all over the French friend’s face. Mwahahahahahaha!)
Me: Yeah, for example, in New Orleans brunch is typically a three-course meal***.
French Friend: Mais quoi? C’est incroyable, 3 plates for breakfast.
(I feel an evil streak rising in me as I note the interest and decide to plunge the final nail into the coffin)
Me: Yep, 3 courses, a starter, main and dessert; and at some restaurants you can even have wine pairings.
(That statement usually does it.)
French Friend: But, this is wonderful, this idea. I would like to try this. Really. Incroyable!
(I smile, basking in the smugness of that rarest of things…a French cultural compliment.)
French Friend: I can’t believe this is American.
(…and, there it is.)
French Friend: Although, you did say this was in Nouvelle Orleans, oui? So really, this is French.
I sigh and wonder if I should try to argue this point, to bring up the simple bread and butter breakfasts of France served with bowls of coffee and nary a menu or champagne cork in sight; or perhaps remind my friend that croissants, that most quintessential French breakfast food, are actually Austrian…but instead, I decide to relent and smile sweetly at my friend.
“Yes,” I say, “Of course. Sometime I’ll have to invite you over for brunch and you can try this Ameri-I mean, French breakfast and see what you think.”
…because after all, no one should be denied a 3-course breakfast and morning booze…particularly, not myself.
* Grits are the most magical of foods and I highly recommend them to everyone.
** Faisselle is actually a big favorite of mine and is often served for dessert at dinners in France or in place of the cheese course. When my Mother was in France a couple of years ago, we woke up to find her raving about the yogurt served for breakfast. “This is the best yogurt I have ever tasted in my life,” she said. We then looked down at the container and told her, “Well, yes, because it isn’t yogurt, it’s cheese!”
*** In case you don’t believe me: http://www.commanderspalace.com/_asset/gx7zq5/3-22-14web.pdf Just reading that menu makes my mouth water.